The flight landed at 6:30 a.m. in the Lima International Airport, where a guide from Overseas Adventure Travel met them at the baggage claim. (It should be noted that Lynne and Matt highly, highly recommend OAT. Through the entire trip, neither Lynne nor Matt ever had to lift of bag, hail a cab, or hunt down a hotel. Top notch, all the way.)
Peru has 28 million residents. Nine million live in Lima. And you can tell. Lima is crowded and overcast (they only get 2 inches of rain per year). The driving in Lima...well, it was interesting. There did not appear to be any speed limits...or turn signals. Drivers just gave a light honk if they want to turn, change lanes, roll through a stop sign, or run over a small dog. It made for a noisy, hazy city. (Do you get the feeling that Lima was not their favorite place? One visit was enough.)
But even in hectic a city, there was real beauty.
Lynne and Matt checked in at the San Agustin Hotel in Lima. Very nice. After a two-hour nap and sending a few emails, the group headed over to the National Museum of Anthropology in the former home of former Peruvian president and liberator (from the Spanish) Simon Bolivar.
A quick note about the travel group. There were 14 total people in the group, plus a guide. There was a teenager traveling with her grandparents, but otherwise everyone besides Lynne and Matt was 55 or older. Some of the people in the group were in their late 60s - and this trip included a lot of walking - but they were up for everything. There was a USC architecture professor (who made sketches of all the places they visited), a psychiatrist (who psychoanalyzed everyone), a retired criminologist, a retired Encyclopedia Britannica documentary maker, doctors, a journalism professor...and then Lynne and Matt, the newlyweds. And everyone couldn't have been nicer.
Meanwhile, on the walk to the center of the city, the group passed Lima's "White House", surrounded by tanks and men with machine guns. It was actually pretty small but conveniently located across the street from a lovely Peruvian 7-11. (No joke.)
The city was preparing for Independence Day (July 27) so the town square was being cleaned. In the center, was a large fountain they fill with pisco so people can come and drink from it. (Chicago should try filling Buckingham Fountain with beer if the Sox and Cubs make the Series). And although Peru supposedly has free speech - every home was required to fly the Peruvian flag, no matter how small or humble the house. Even in remote shacks in the Amazon, the red and white was flying.
And then there was This Guy. Um, we here at the Lynne and Matt American Internet Experience, do not specifically endorse these kind of images but, well, This Guy was everywhere in Peru. Gift shops. T-shirts. Packs of cards. And the more you saw him, well, the more you wondered about This Guy's life. It had to be difficult to find pants. Riding a bike: out. And how does he put his tray down on an airplane? All right, moving on.
So, while the country has many beautiful treasures to offer, the historic displays are of varying quality and accessibility. Sometimes, this is to the tourist's advantage because - as Lynne and Matt later found out - you can get up close, and even touch, relics hundreds of years old.
Back at the church, the basement had been used as a catacomb for hundreds of years. The only problem: at some point, someone decided the place needed a little cleaning up. So, rather than just dust off the skeletons, they decided to group all the bones by type: skulls with the skulls, humerus with the humerus, toes with toes. That's either very insulting or quite efficient, depending on your point of view. In one pit, they had made a very artistic circle of skulls and arm bones. Tourists aren't supposed to take pictures, but you can find a view here.
Back at the church, the basement had been used as a catacomb for hundreds of years. The only problem: at some point, someone decided the place needed a little cleaning up. So, rather than just dust off the skeletons, they decided to group all the bones by type: skulls with the skulls, humerus with the humerus, toes with toes. That's either very insulting or quite efficient, depending on your point of view. In one pit, they had made a very artistic circle of skulls and arm bones. Tourists aren't supposed to take pictures, but you can find a view here.
After dinner, it was time for bed, so Lynne and Matt could catch yet another flight, this one that left at 3 a.m. for an Amazon adventure.
Day Three summary: one museum , one yellow church, two Americans eating Italian in Peru, one flight Miami to Lima (two total)
Mustache status: Shady
Mustache status: Shady